Jon Boat Duck Blind
The new 2002 blind
It is shorter and you can see Don on the right, but may have a hard time seeing him on the left. Click on the pics for a LARGER view.
Here is an idea for a jon boat blind that I use. I came up with the parts and the "mechanics" of it after seeing numerous other ideas out on the water. I mixed all the ideas together and here it is.... Now I know I won't be able to explain how to build this blind in an easy way, but here is the idea. As for saving money by building it myself?? I doubt I saved a dime, it is just like everything else with waterfowling, I refuse to spend a ton of cash on something I should be able to make. Either way, I know a lot of guys and girls are looking for blind ideas for their boat, so here it is. Feel free to email me with any better ideas.... I'm still looking for the perfect blind too!
Updated February 20, 2003
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The boat on a fresh water lake in PA & the coastal bays of NJ, it worked well! This blind set up and broke down in seconds, it handled the road great without being tied down and it really looks good for being on a 16 foot Jon boat.
The New Blind Frame The Old Blind Frame
Pic #1 Pic #2
Pic #1 shows how much shorter the blind is now. Now I sit on the 4 inch high wood box with the swivel seat attached, which sits across the boat's floor ribs. I'll take a picture of the seat tomorrow so you can see it better. Pic#2 shows the basic idea of the old blind frame, which was 3/4 inch copper tubing.
The long grass rail piece is 10 foot long, front to back, most pipe (copper, EMT conduit, alum tubing, etc) comes in 10 or 12 foot lengths. The "Leg or Support" pieces started out at 4 foot lengths, but then they were cut down drastically to the desired height I liked. The front "legs" are 14 inches high and the rear "legs" are 19 inches high. Bimini Top parts were used for the pivot points, they were cheap and did hold up under a lot of use last year. I used copper tubing initially cause its easy to work with and relatively cheap, but I have changed to ALUMINUM square tubing this year, now that I have the framework figured out. The 10 foot pieces usually sell for around $30, give or take a buck or two. But I got lucky and got the whole 20 foot piece for $9.95 with a free cut in the middle so I'd have 2 10 foot pieces!! Its light weight, stronger and won't sag much or at all, unlike the copper. The copper held up fine though, even under the weight of the FastGrass.
RAISING THE BLIND
I stand at the back seat, grab a metal "O" ring with one hand and a metal "D" clip with the other. Lift the blind up and clip them together, walk to the front seat and clip that set together (see Pic #'s 3 and 4). This creates a walking/gunning lane 22 to 24 inches wide. You can put 2 more sets of metal O and D Clip rings for added strength for those real windy days. The blind folds onto itself when it is collapsed and unfolds when lifted (see Pic # will be added soon).
Pic #3 Pic #4
Close-up of the rear pivot point (Pic #5), you can see the front bimini top pivots in Pic's #1 & 4.
Pic #5 Pic #6
The bimini secure straps keep the blind from falling side to side (Pic #6) and you can see the bimini strap eye screwed to the front deck of the boat. Obviously this blind is not for the weak stomachs that don't want to drill holes into their boat, but I drilled holes the next day after buying this brand new Jon boat (Summer of 2001) and this blind works great! And hell, the boat is a Jon boat, so don't be afraid to drill holes into the boat!
In Pic # 7 you can see the padding I added to the 10 foot top rail, keeps the paint from chipping off and protects the guns. In Pic #8 you see how I joined the top rail and the support legs, I'm not a welder and I refuse to pay $100 p/hr for a welder to weld 4 spots on this frame! On one side use the 3 inch 90 degree bracket and the 2 1/2 inch on the other side, it keeps the self tapping screws from each other.
Pic #7 Pic #8
Height of the frame and blind.
Nols (5' 8" short and fat!!) on the left and Don (5' ?? and Skinny Bastard!) on the right! Just lean forward and over the top rail to shoot!
The seat that's being used, sits across the floor ribs, pops open for storage, not made by me. A buddy used an old ammo crate, the seat and some ingenuity!
Blind down, ready for trailering, no straps needed. The grass holds everything in place and the wind helps make the grass "wild." You can see the black net backing which was boat at Lowes Home Stores, but here is the manufacture's web addy, www.landware.net/, Just look under their products, then utility netting. They should be able to help you. The front piece of grass is just a loose piece that I fold up when on the road and un-roll it when ready to hunt, then just drape it over the bow. I do need to add some grass to the front opening to hide those support poles before the season starts.
What You will need - add or subtract what you desire
2 - 10ft long horizontal support tubing
(3/4" thick copper or whatever, I suggest 1" w/ 1/16th inner diameter alum square tube or whatever you desire)
2 - 8ft lengths of support tubing (you'll cut these to your desired height)
4 - Bimini Top Pivot bases (I used 2 flat Deck Mount bases and 2 side surface bases)
2 - 3" 90 degree "L" aluminum brackets
2 - 2 1/2" 90 degree "L" aluminum brackets
4 - Bimini Straps, adjustable (short or medium length)
4 - Bimini Strap Eyes
4 - Bimini Square Inside Eyes (or outside round eyes if you use round tubing)
2 to 4 - Metal "O" Rings
2 to 4 - Metal "D" Clip Rings
Self tapping screws
Several lengths of small rope (I used Army parachute cord, good stuff!)
20 feet or more of plastic landscape netting (I used 15 feet on each side that way the grass had 2 1/2 foot overhang on the front and back)
8 or more Fast Grass or Avery Grass panels
And anything else you think will work! I probably forgot to list something.